This article is a mention and shout out to a great opensource software known as TrueCrypt. I have been using it for years and I love it. TrueCrypt is a file encryption and entire disk encryption utility. It uses multiple top rated encryption algorithms to encrypt your data securely. In this day and age with laptops and being on the go as well as cloud storage, encryption is a must IMO.

You can use this utility to create encrypted file containers of any size. This includes removable media such as SD cards and USB flash drives as well as files stored on hard drives. You can also encrypt your entire file system/hard drive. The data is encrypted and decrypted on the fly and in the event of a shut down or power loss your data will still remain encrypted to all users without a password and/or keyfile (if you choose to use one). I highly recommend this software to anyone serious about personal data security.

If you do choose to use TrueCrypt, please be sure to donate to the developers via the link here, as a lot of time and hard work has gone into this project and they have always offered this product to everyone for free. Any donation is better than no donation. For more info about TrueCrypt and how it works click here. Enjoy!

 

This post will simply step through the process to flash your stock Sprint Epic 4g with Clockworkmod 5+ for recovery, obtain root, and optionally install Cyanogenmod7 (You will love this great, custom ROM that has no bloat and is packed with great features!)  Why would you want to do this? Read below.

*Clockworkmod allows you to flash your phone to obtain root and install a custom ROM.

*Rooting allows you to take full control of everything your phone has to offer that the carriers choose to lock out as well as being able to flashing kick ass ROMs and be able to remove bloatware and tracking software the carriers put on your phone! You will also be able to tether your phone to your computer and/or laptop and share your data connection from your phone with them.

*Cyanogenmod gives you a kick ass, smooth and stable ROM with many many customizable options to make your phone bloat free, ultra productive, and very slick looking!

I did not come up with this process or any of the tools and files involved, but I have the process down to a science, and it literally take’s me 5 minutes or less to do the whole process from stock. I just smashed and lost lost my phone a couple days ago (but oddly and fortunately enough, I was able to find the battery and SD card) and got a new one from the insurance the very next day. I flashed Clockwork, obtained root, installed Cyanogenmod7, installed Google Apps, restored my phone’s settings identical to my old one (using the awesome backup/restore feature of Cyanogenmod) and all of my apps and data with Titanium Backup Pro (paid version). Within 15 minutes of beginning this process, it was as if I never lost my phone! Many many many thanks from me to Google and all the cool, hardworking people out there that created the ROM and all the other tools I am using in this process!!! Please donate to them on their download pages if you choose to use their stuff. It is well worth it.

Before starting this, check the version on your phone first by going to Settings/About Phone, and scroll down to “Build number” and be sure it says “GINGERBREAD.FC09″ before doing this. If it does say that, you’re good to go. This guide assumes you have not done any sort of flashing or rooting of your phone and you received the GINGERBREAD.FC09 update from Sprint via OTA unless of course, you got the phone more recently because they started coming with FC09 at some point. Never mind that jargon about the OTA update! Just be sure it says GINGERBREAD.FC09. Please, use this info at your own risk. I take no responsibility for what could happen to your phone, but I can also say I have done this to 3 different Epic 4g’s of mine and never had a problem and I love it!

If you plan on installing Cyanogenmod, I highly recommend downloading and installing Titanium Backup from the Google Play store before starting. I will note when to run the backup process in this walk through when it becomes relevant and this will only be necessary if you choose to install Cyanogenmod. Either way Titanium Backup is a must have in my opinion and making a system backup is a great idea.  Please fully read Step #14  below before starting this process! Now on to the good stuff. Enjoy!

 

Step1: For simplicity, create a folder somewhere on your computer to save the files to and name it anything you’d like.

Step 2: Download Odin v1.85 from here and save it to the folder you created.

Step 3: Download Samsung USB drivers from here and save it to the folder you created.

Step 4: Download this cwm-5.0.2.7-epic4g.tar.md5 file from here and save it to the folder you created.

Step 5: Download this Superuser (aka root) file from here and save it to the folder you created.

Step 6 (optional): Download Cyanogenmod7 from here and save it to the folder you created.

Step 7 (optional/recommended): Download the Google Apps file from here and save it to the folder you created. You only need this if you choose to flash Cyanagenmod7 and would like your Google Apps (Gmail app, Google Play Store app and the other important Google products that are included in the stock ROM).

Now that you have the files from above, let’s do this!

Step 8: Extract the Samsung drivers from the Samsung_Mobile_Driver_V1.3.800_For_SPH-d700_Epic_4G.zip file in the folder and run the executable file. This will put the necessary drivers on your computer.

Step 9: Connect your phone to the computer via USB and copy paste the following files to your SD card

*Root:  ”Superuser-3.0.7-efghi-signed.zip”

*Google Apps: “gapps-gb-20110828-signed.zip” (optional)

*Cyanogenmod7: “update-cm-7.2.0-RC1-epicmtd-signed.zip” (optional)

Step 10: Extract this zip file “Odin3-v1.85.zip” to the folder you have been saving to.

Step 11: Turn your phone off and plug it into the USB on your computer. Slide the keyboard open and hold down the number “1″ button on the keyboard and the power button at the same time. Your phone should go into “Download Mode” and you will see a yellow dude and it should say “Downloading….” underneath him.

Step 12: On your computer, open the executable file named “Odin3 v1.85.exe” that’s in the folder you extracted it to. You should see a series of white empty boxes at the top with smaller boxes under them. The small box on the left side should say “0:[COM7]” and be yellow in color. Do not worry about the number it says as long as you see something in that box you are good.

Step 13: Make sure all check boxes  on the screen in Odin are unchecked and then click the word that says “PDA”. Once clicked a file window will pop up. Navigate to the folder we have been saving everything in and select this file “cwm-5.0.2.7-epic4g.tar.md5″ and hit OK. After selecting that file, the only checkbox on the screen that should be checked is the little box next to “PDA”.

Step 14: Now click the big “Start” button in Odin. It should process some commands in the lower left window on the screen and a progress bar should be moving above the 0:[COM7] box. The big box above it will briefly say “Recovery” then “Reset” and then turn green and say “Pass”. If you got a “Pass” go to step #15 below. If you did not get a “Pass”or it hangs up it is either A) your cable, or B) the USB port you are using. In my experience, the front ports on my desktop PC did not work so I plugged into a rear port and it did work, and on laptops, some ports I used work better than others. I have one ESata/USB on the left side and 3 USB ports on the other side and I did have an issue once with one of the ports but can’t remember if it was on the left or right. If none of the ports work for you, it is the cable. If it is the cable,  unfortunately your phone is bricked (screwed) until you try another cable that works. I have not figured out a way to find out if your cable is good before you start, but I have a theory that the newer cables are better than cables from early 2011 and before. I got my last Epic 4g phone and cable in early March of 2011 and it has worked for me, but my girlfriends cable that she got with her phone in 2010 did not work for me! So perhaps before starting this get a new OEM cable for your phone.

Step 15: Assuming you made it through step 14 and you see the green “Pass” box, unplug the phone from the USB and remove the battery for a few seconds. Now replace the battery but do not turn it on.

Step 16: Now press and hold these 3 buttons at the same time and hold until you see the “Samsung” word on the screen, then release. Volume Down + Camera + Power. You should see it boot into Clockworkmod now (blue sentences on the screen).

Step 17: Once in Clockwork we are going to root. Press volume up or down to move the cursor and go to “Install zip from sd card”. Once highlighted, press the “home” button on the bottom of your screen to enter the selection. Then select “choose zip from sd card”. Scroll through that list and select the file we put on there earlier named “Superuser-3.0.7-efghi-signed.zip”. Press the “home” button to select and apply it. You should see it run the process very quickly and say finished. You now have root on your phone! If that is all you wanted to do, go ahead and select “reboot system now”. If you don’t see that option, press the back button on the bottom of the screen to get back to the main screen of clockwork where that option and select “reboot system now” and you are done! You now have Clockworkmod recovery and are rooted and your system and data should be unchanged. At this point, I highly recommend downloading and using Titanium Backup (REQUIRES root which you now have). Especially if you are going to continue on and install Cyanogenmod7 (the next step). For more info about Titanium Backup go to the end of this walk though and read about it under the bold letters “Titanium Backup:” and come back to step 18 when ready.

Step 18: To install Cyanogenmod, do the same process as step 17 except this time choose the file on the SD card named “update-cm-7.2.0-RC1-epicmtd-signed.zip” and run that. You should see it go through a quick install process and say finished. There is no need to reboot the phone yet because now that you installed Cyanogenmod7, I highly recommend the last step of installing Google Apps.

Step 19: To install Google Apps do the same process as in step 18 except this time choose the file from the SD card named “gapps-gb-20110828-signed.zip”. Once this is done, you now have everything pimped to the max on your phone. Hit the back button on the bottom of the screen a few times to be sure you are on the main screen of the Clockworkmod and choose “Reboot system now”. The phone should boot up with a cool new Cyanogenmod splash screen and an Android robot on a skateboard animation.

Step 20:  Go to Settings/Accounts & Sync and fill in your Google account(‘s) info to get your contacts back and all your other data synced with Google. Then open your Google Play Store app and go to the settings in that app and select “My Downloaded Apps”. From here you can see a list of past apps you had downloaded and re-download them if you’d like.

Titanium backup: One last recommendation. If you haven’t already downloaded Titanium Backup, you should. To do so, go to the Google Play Store and download the free version of Titanium Backup (REQUIRES root which you now have) to keep your system backed up. When it installs, you will see a system message asking about giving Superuser permission to the app. Choose “Allow” and be sure the check box for “remember this selection” is checked.  After this you can also, pay the $7 or whatever it costs now (well worth it) for the Titanium Backup Pro Key to be able to do batch restores and such. This makes backing up and restoring much easier and faster than the free version, but is not necessary. I myself purchased and use the Pro version. Anyways, enjoy your new kick ass, free from the greedy grips of Sprint, Epic 4g!!!!

 

 

Today I am going to explain how to recover files from a corrupted file or storage device. These files can be pictures, images, documents and all other types of data. The storage device  can be .zip files, .rar files, USB flash drives, hard drives, SD cards and more. This practice you are about to learn here is referred to as “data carving”. It can be quite tedious, but it all depends on how badly you want your files back. More advanced users can make the task much simpler by writing a script to do the repetitive searching, finding, carving and saving, but today, however, I am just going to show you how this works via the manual method.

The first order of business is to get yourself a hex editor. For this tutorial I am using HxD which is a free hex editor available here. Once you have your hex editor you are ready to begin. You will also need the file or device (storage card, flash drive, HD) you would like to recover files from. In my case, I am recovering pictures from my Android phones corrupted SD card. I removed the card from my phone and inserted it into my microSD to SD adapter and plugged it into my SD card slot on my laptop. Lastly you will need to reference the following links for the hex file signatures wikipedia here and another list here. Leave these open in another tab in your browser for reference. Continue the step by step below.

  1. Open the HxD application.
  2. Choose “File>Open”
  3. Browse to the location of the file or device (In my case it is F: which is my SD card drive) select it and click “Open”
  4. Now you should see a column to the left called “offsets” and 16 two digit columns in the middle and a column with some funky characters to the right. If you see this, you are good so far.
  5. It is a good idea to make a copy of all this data right off the bat. This way you won’t risk accidentally changing the data on the device. To do this choose “File>SaveAs” , give it a unique name and store it anywhere except for on the device you are working to recover files from. Be sure the file is not too large for your hard drive or wherever you intend to store it. In my case it is a 16GB card and I do have the space on my hard drive. Alternately, you can also just copy all of the hex data (the 16 two digit colums in the middle) into a new .txt file and save it, but the “File>SaveAs” should have worked anyways.
  6. Once you have saved this copy, close all the open stuff in the program and then open the copy you made. Now you are working with a copy of your data and not the original.
  7. Now here comes the magic. For now we are going to recover images from my SD as that is what I need to recover. If I reference the reference lists from the links in the beginning of this post, I see that all .jpg files begin with FF D8 in the center hex values column. Different types of .jpg may have different values after the FF D8 but they all have FF D8 to start. So now I am going to press Ctrl+F or click “Search>Find” in the HxD menu at the top. I am going to type FF D8 in the “Search for:” field and choose “Hex-values” in the “Datatype:” box and click “OK”HxD Search Function
  8. Now the search will find the very next instance of the values FF D8 in the hex column. Once you find the value note the offset values to left for that row. Type this value into a new blank .txt document or just write it down on paper. In my case the value is “000498000″ I recorded this value into my notepad.
    Offset value at beginning of image
  9. When I reference the list at the second reference link from the beginning of this tutorial, I see that all .jpg files have a hex trailer value of FF D9. So now, while keeping my cursor in the same location I am going to hit Ctrl+F again to bring up the search dialog. This time I am going to search for the value FF D9. The search found the FF D9 value at the offset of “00049B6B0″. I noted this in my .txt document like this  ”498000 – 49B6B0″.
  10. Now I am going to go back to the offset row of  ”000498000″ and use my mouse to select all the values from there down to the “00049B6B0″ row. Be sure you start selecting from in front of the FF D8 value and all the down to the end of the FF D9 trailer value. See the image below. Note the image does not show the selection all the way up as it is so many rows and won’t all fit on the screen. The idea here is to select all those 2 digit letters and numbers from the first offset row of  ”498000″ beginning with the FF D8 all the way down to the offset row of “49B6B0″ ending with FF D9 value.
    Selecting the hex value block for this image
  11. Leave that block highlighted. Now you will need to go and grab any real picture file you have on your computer and copy it. to wherever you want to start saving these recovered images. For me I made a new folder called “recovered_files” on my desktop. I then copied  and pasted a non-corrupted, working .jpg picture I had on my computer, into that folder. Be sure to use a copy and not your original or you will lose that picture for good. Now go into the HxD program and choose “File>Open” and select that image copy that you just put into that folder. You will now see all the hex of that image. Now click Ctrl+A or “Edit>Select All” from the menu. Once all is highlighted hit the backspace button on your keyboard. Be sure you are doing this in the image file you just opened and not the actual original data file we have been working with. HxD is a tabbed program so your new image file you opened should be a new tab in the program.
  12. Now that you have deleted the hex data from the image file you just opened, go back to the data file in the other tab that we have all the data selected in from above, and hit Ctrl+C or “Edit>Copy” from the menu.
  13. Now go back into the empty image hex file and hit Ctrl+V or “Edit>Paste” from the menu. This will paste that chunk of selected and copied data from the file we were working with into our new, empty .jpg hex file. After pasting it, go to the top and be sure the first characters in the hex column are “FF D8″ and then goto the end of that same file and be sure the last characters in the hex column are “FF D9″. If you have verified this select “File>SaveAs” from the menu. Give this file a unique new name (example test.jpg) and click “OK”. That’s it!

You should now be able to navigate to the folder you saved that data in and see the image file you just saved, in all of it’s glory. If you see the image file and it is visible, you have just learned how to carve data from a corrupted file system and save your image. This method will work with all sorts of data. At a later time perhaps I will get more in depth and explain how to batch automate this process. I hope you have found this info useful! If you have made it to this point, you have excellent patience and concentration and can do anything you put your mind to!

 

I would like to start by saying I am in no way affiliated with the following website other than being a new, free user on their site. With that said, I have been learning web scripting / programming languages and technologies such as; PHP, JQuery, Javascript, MySQL, Apache, HTML, XML, Git, SVN, and the likes for quite some time now. I am very familiar with setting up my local programming environments needed. Mostly LAMP (Linux, Apache, MySQL, PHP) and/or WAMP (Windows, Apache, MySQL, PHP) and my preferred code editor, Eclipse. I know how to set my own environments up and I also know the time it takes to get everything the way you like it on a per computer basis. Recently I was looking into some sort of cloud based environment that would allow me to code and design in the cloud. I know I can set up this cloud environment on my own, but I just don’t have the time or desire to do so. Upon doing a simple web search I stumbled on a site called kodingen.com and I ended up signing up for a free account.

Kodingen.com offers free accounts that allow a Cloud based programming environment. I find this useful for myself as I can code on any computer, anywhere, through the web. I don’t have to worry about a particular computers environment being set up as needed because it is all run in the web. Only an internet connection and web browser is needed. Also, it makes for quick and easy editing as you can update your code in one tab and then switch to the tab right next to it to see your website easily. I have always been able to do this locally via my local environment I run, but this requires more work and is mostly bound to that particular workstation. This new cloud based system is also great for novice programmers, that may just be starting out, to get into a preconfigured, working environment and just start spending their time learning code and not how to set up local servers and the rest of the programming environment required.

I have only been using the kodingen.com site for a couple days. It is still in beta stage, but it is very usable in it’s current state. I’m sure they are constantly continuing the development of the site and it is looking very promising. I don’t know how I feel about having my personal code, that I have spent my time creating, stored on their server yet, but I certainly don’t mind diddling little scripts and playing with the system, and so far, have found it to be quite nice.  Some of the great features it offers are as follows. Also, keep in mind the whole GUI is designed in sleek JQuery and a little Flash and EVERYTHING below completely runs in your web browser of choice;

  • Instantly parses many different code types ie; PHP, Cold Fusion, Python, ASP, Java Script, HTML, JSON, SHTML and more
  • Simple one click installations of software offered such as; WordPress, Drupal, PHPMyAdmin and more. More apps will most likely be added to the list in the future
  • Simple management of FTP Drives, SVN Repositories, and Web Servers
  • A community of other users to work along side with on projects.
  • A visual sticky note system
  • Simple database control
  • Upload/Backup control options
  • In browser graphics editors very similar to Adobe Photoshop or Corel Draw (Flash driven)
  • Multiple code editors (with code highlighting)
  • Forums, Groups, Blogs and Tutorials

That is just a some of the features offered at kodingen.com. I am a new user to the site, but I feel the fellas at kodingen.com are working on a cutting edge framework for cloud coding. I have had the idea of this for quite some time, but just never found the time to get started on it. Kudos to the guys there for beginning a great project like this. For more info or to use it without registering simply click here. Once on the page, click the little orange tab at the top left of the screen. This will pull down a guest user toolbar just like a registered user for demo purposes. You can open a file (image or script) under the file manager and choose an editor.

 

I purchased an 08 Chevy Colorado, brand new,  at the end of 2007. I got the 4×2 with Crew Cab and 5 foot bed LT series with the “Sun and Sound” package. This meant a sun-roof, fog lights, a free year of XM satellite radio and a free year of OnStar. I had no interest in the latter two, but all the vehicles come with this installed. The truck was sold to me for $24,000, if I remember correct. It may have been a slight bit less. For the most part, this truck was just what I was looking for. I wanted to be able to comfortably accommodate 4-5 passengers as well as space for things like fishing gear, surf boards, golf clubs, 4 wheeler, coolers and other similar gear and the ability to tow a trailer if needed.  This truck fit the bill, but I have become less happy with it over time. Please read my review below based on my time owning this vehicle. I have had it since October 2007 to present.

Engine, Power and Gas Mileage

It has a 4 cylinder engine, though they also have a 5 cylinder inline engine as an option as well (strange choice in my opinion). I have no idea why it isn’t a V-6 instead. Anyways, I notice the lack of power in this 4 cylinder engine right away. This truck was said to get 22-24mpg city, I believe, and somewhere between 20-26mpg  highway. I had found it to be more like 18mpg city and around 24mpg highway. I consider myself an efficient driver and these are the gas mileage numbers I experienced. I rarely pushed this truck to high speeds/RPMs, mostly because it just makes a lot of noise and doesn’t seem to have much actual pickup. I did however, pull a slightly heavy 5′x8′ enclosed trailer behind it, and to my surprise, the truck felt like it didn’t even have a trailer behind it except for when braking and the fact that the trailer mashed the back end down pretty good due to wimpy springs. On a side note, this is not the Z-71 suspension model. I believe it may have a lower, towing geared rear end on it and that is why the engine seems to tow it effortlessly.

 

The entire time I have owned this truck I have noticed when I go somewhere and then turn the truck off and back on again within 1 – 15 minutes, the truck would be hesitant to start. Sometimes turning over quite a few times before even sounding like ignition is occurring.

More recently I had began slowly experiencing a more and more rough running engine and it would occasionally hunt at idle and, at one point, it started to stall here and there too while at idle. Also, it began getting worse and it would surge while driving, decelerating and sitting at stop lights. At stop lights this was almost dangerous because the engine would surge and start to get the car moving while my foot was on the brakes.  These symptoms were puzzling me because I have always changed the air filter, spark plugs, oil and oil filter regularly, as well as using fuel additives on occasion. Besides that, the truck only had 35,000 miles on it at this point.

I read around and saw a lot of mention about dirty throttle bodies leading to this on many occasions. I called the dealership and mentioned this and they informed me that cleaning the throttle body every 15,000 miles was a necessary maintenance need for the truck. I have never had to clean a throttle body every 15,000 miles on any vehicle I have owned, but either way I went ahead and did it to this one. This was at about 22,000 miles. The throttle body definitely had some crud on it. It should not have looked like it did, but there is some sort of  issue with the valve covers or engine block being ported into the intake system for some dumb reason. The oily sludge was very obviously coming into the intake and causing premature buildup. For a detailed post on cleaning the throttle body on this truck click here. After cleaning it the truck ran better for about a week or two. Now it is back to the rough running and worse than ever. I am going to be cleaning the MAF (mass airflow sensor) tomorrow and see if it helps. Also, I will be bringing it in to the dealership ASAP. Unfortunately, there is not free rental car until if and when there is a warranty covered issue with the vehicle. Otherwise, I have to pay for my own rental car.

Body / Paint

I got the charcoal grey color. The body was in good shape except I noticed right after purchasing it, one of the plastic covers under the bed in the wheel well was broken. I noticed this within hours of owning it. I took it back and they had replaced the entire plastic piece for free but it took a few hours. I feel the paint on this truck comes of quite easy and gets scratched easy as well. The simplest ding seems to chip paint off. Also, road salt and pebbles ping up the paint on the hood quite easily. There is a spot on both rear passengers doors in the exact same place that have been slowly rusting since the first few months of owning it to now.  They have gone from the size of a pin head to the size of a nail head. It appears to be rusting from the inside out all along. This, in my opinion, seems to be an obvious defect due to the fact it is on both sides in the exact same place (just behind the window on rear passenger doors). The Chevy emblem on the grill began weirdly flaking it’s orange color behind the clear coat from the inside out with 6 months of owning the truck. I took it in and they replace it at no cost. Today the truck has little dings and pings from the usual day to day assault from fellow Chicagoans car doors in parking lots. The underneath of the truck seems to be mostly free from rust, but I constantly clean the underbody off with the car wash spray wand year round.

Interior

The interior of the truck has black and gray color to it. I like the black and gray interior, needless to say winter salt and black carpet = mess. Fortunately I own a commercial grade carpet extractor w/ heat option. All in all the interior is pretty decent. The rubber mats (not included, extra $ for these mats) are nice except they don’t look like nice, shiny clean rubber after a short while. When I clean them I use wash them off and then use an interior cleaner/protectant and they look nice and shiny clean until the cleaner/protectant slowly evaporates. The center console box has a flip back top that opens for storage. I have found that I have cracked it from leaning on it with my elbow when I get into the truck. I feel this lid should have been made to handle this. I don’t think it’s noticeable except from underneath the lid.

Within the first couple months of owning the truck, I was leaving a bar to go home one night and the “Door Open” warning was being displayed as well as the interior light being on. I checked all the doors and they were indeed closed, so this was obviously a broken sensor/switch. After driving home with the constant beeping and the interior light on, I knew that I needed to pull light bulb out of the light housing until the morning so I would not have a dead battery in the AM. Also, I could not set the alarm as it would go off because the door was considered “open”. I took it in and they said it was indeed a failed sensor/switch and fixed it under warranty. Just recently, I was at work and a co-worker came in to tell me the alarm was going off on my truck. I went out and disarmed it only to find it was the door sensor thing again. Earlier that day the truck was fine on the way in to work and then just randomly, while sitting absolutely still in a parking lot for 4 hours, it decided to have a “door open” warning again. Again I had to disconnect the light and then went back in and finished my day at work. The light and warning were still on on the way home from work.  The next day I put the light back in, though, because I noticed the “door open” warning was gone for now. Now all I can do is wonder when it will decide to do it again.

For the entire time I have owned this truck it has been real finicky as to when it wants to lock when I push the lock button on either one of the remotes. This has always been super annoying. I read somewhere it has something to do with disturbance caused by the OnStar computer/antennae being mounted too close to the lock/unlock antennae. I am not sure if this is the case, but I do know I have always had to hit the lock button almost 15 times sometimes before it actually locks and arms the alarm. Because the alarm arming only flashes the lights and doesn’t beep the horn I always have to rubber neck back at the truck while I’m walking away until it finally locks on key press number 10-15 and I see the lights flash to know it locked.

Brakes / Chassis

The brakes that came on the truck were cheap. They squeaked from day one, especially on moist days. I changed them with better rotors and ceramic pads. The rear drums looked good, meat on pads and no scratches on drum, so I only cleaned the dust out and cleaned the drum surface with brake cleaner. Once I reinstalled them and drove, I noticed they still made a ton of squeaking, so I had to replace the pads and turn the drums instead.  All in all I feel the brakes are just too small for such a heavy truck. I think the front rotors overheat and warp and the rear brakes are drums. Drums are just a pain in the ass compared to disc. Also, I have a feeling I have a bent rim now too. I have no idea how that happened as I don’t recall hitting anything that would cause the rim to get bent, but I am pretty sure this is the case.

Summary

I bought this truck because I thought it was what I was looking for as far as design and economy, and because I really dislike Ford. Up until this truck I had always outright owned my vehicles, but they needed work all the time and I had to do it. I am mechanically inclined and enjoy working on cars, but I became too busy to worry about working on cars and not always being able to depend on them to start the next day. I bought this truck brand new with the thought of not needing to worry about my means of transportation so much and a warranty sounded nice at the time. The truth is I pay through the nose for this thing and still owe more than it’s worth plus the costs for spark plugs, filters, oil, gas and the time it takes to drop it off at the dealer and wait on their slow poke service center. I should have bought a foreign car. Preferably Japanese; Honda, Toyota or even a Volkswagen or something like that. When I tell people that many of them bring up the Toyota gas pedal recall. I’d much rather only have to worry about something like a small design flaw in a gas pedal that would get stuck down. It doesn’t take a genius to react to a stuck gas pedal and either shift to Neutral/Park, shut off the car and/or depress all the brakes. Besides that, I’m sure statistically American car manufacturers have probably had way more recalls and safety cover ups than most all foreign manufacturers.

Follow ups:

5/8/2011 – I just took the truck in for the rough idling issue. It turns out the MAF sensor wire harness had a cut wire close to the harness. I have no idea how a wire can manage to sever itself. There is nothing in that area that looks capable of severing the wire, and I know for a fact I did not sever it at any time. Very suspicious to me. Either A) they cut the wire to cover up some other defect that it really was, or B) they are the worlds cheapest wires capable of being cleanly severed on their own. Needless to say the truck runs better now, but still not as quiet and smooth as it was when it was newer.

 

 

I have had this rolling around in my mind for years. If you have ever been sitting in your living room at a time when the sun is beaming across the room through slits in your curtains, you have probably noticed the large amount of visible dust and dander floating through the air. It rises when you sit on your couch or chair and when you brush past your curtains. This dust is always present, but it is only seen in this certain angle of light.

My idea is a large lipstick shaped housing, about the size of an ionic breeze. It’s workings would consist of a custom made PVC pipe, 6″ around, with a rounded, sealed top to it. Within this 6″ tube will be a slightly smaller tube that fits inside snuggly. This inner tube would be able to spin inside the other tube, but would rub smoothly and constantly against the outer tube. The outer tube would be sealed air tight with very dry air, devoid of any moisture. The inner tube would be attached to a vertically oriented, electric motor shaft. If the motor is externally mounted, the shaft would need to have a good seal around it to prevent moisture from getting in. This motor would turn the inner tube at a consistent pace within. In theory the inner tube’s friction against the outer tube, in this dry air tight chamber, would cause static buildup on the outside surface of the outer tube. The dry air within is essential in producing efficient static charge. This invention should cause things like dust, dander and smoke residue to collect on it’s surface and stick to it just like it does on a CRTV  television screen. This residue could then be wiped off from time to time with a moist rag and disposed of. Also a custom, snug fit plastic bag like sleeve could be slid over the entire unit, and when the residues collect to a certain point, the bag could be pulled off inverted, disposed of and replaced.

These units could be placed strategically around a living space or office to capture sufficient amounts of dust from the air, and with much less enrgy usage as compared to forced air, fan driven units. They could also be placed in existing central climate control ducting. I don’t know exactly how well this invention would work as I have not experimented with it at all, but it seems like the science is there to support it. Perhaps a dangerous level of charge could build up on the surface. In this event, a ground wire of some sort could be place somewhere on the unit at a precise proximity to draw the charge off at a calculated level.

 

I have been designing all types of websites and doing custom programming/scripting for years. I specialize in business software and integrations as well as eCommerce websites. More recently, technologies in the eCommerce field have come a long way. For this reason I no longer build eCommerce sites. This day and age I simply recommend the following options to friends, family and customers when they inquire about eCommerce solutions;

Interspire Cart

I personally have been using this software for a few years now and have not had a single problem. You can view my Interspire powered store here. If you want a site that you actually own the code for, Interspire Cart is the software for you. It is not free, but it does not cost that much for the power you will get (under $300). I have used all types of shopping carts from free open source carts like (Cube Cart, oSCommerce, Magento, Joomla, Open  Cart, etc..) to paid carts like (X-Cart, Sun Shop, Shop Site Pro, etc..) but in all my experiences, Interspire Cart has always beat them hands down, time and time again. Interspire Cart has left nothing out of their cart in terms of features and functions as well as user friendliness. Everything in the sleek admin panel is simple to edit and requires no technical knowledge at all. There are little question marks next to every single field in the admin panel that, when hovered over, pop out help boxes that explain exactly what the field or setting does. Here are just a few of the key factors that really stand out;

  • Simple one-click templating sytem that completely switches the look of the page in one simple click and your choice of many free templates. These themes can also be further themed with some simple CSS
  • Youtube video embedding on product pages
  • product quantity price breaks, product attributes (color, size, customized text and many more!) that can be assigned to any product
  • Analytical sales statistics and graphs
  • Returns management (issues RMA numbers and more).
  • Integrates with one click into any combination of payment methods ie; Google Checkout, PayPal, Authorize.net and many many more (not just one, all of them can be offered to your customers)

Again, those were just a very few of the many, many robust features this site offers. I guarantee this software will not fail you! I literally stopped building eCommerce sites from scratch and just started recommending Interspire Cart. You MUST see this cart in action to understand why! Try the online demo store here.  This demo is an exact copy of the cart you would own (with the default blue, 2 column theme selected) but it is not connected to a real store, so you can mess with it till your hearts content. Change values, add products, change images and whatever else you feel like exploring. Spend some time with the demo before you make your decision. You can launch the control panel as well as the store front to see what you as an administrator will see and what your customers will see as well. I would like to extend my services, if needed, to get it all installed and running/hosted/managed. Once it is installed it can be easily maintained and updated by you from then on out.

Big Commerce / Shopify

If your looking to have all the exact same features as the cart above, but not actually have to host or purchase the code you can use the following web based cart services. The first is Big Commerce which is exactly the same as Interspire Cart, but runs in the web as a service. It is an identical copy of Interspire Cart made by the same company but the actual code is not owned by you, but rather rented. The reasons a person would choose this simple option is because it is a bit cheaper initially to start up with and the cart is hosted, managed, and stored in the web securely.  Shopify is another “in the web” style, rented cart and is the biggest competitor to Big Commerce. It has many of the same features as Big Commerce. Both are good choices, but I personally prefer Big Commerce / Interspire as I feel it is the absolute best.

As a web designer and custom coder, I can honestly say the above mentioned solutions are the absolute best available today. I would not look any further than one of these three. So, armed with your new knowledge, good luck and happy selling!

Also, if you have any further questions or concerns regarding this post, please feel free to contact me (Bryan).  You can email me @ (generated110 {a-t} hotmail {d-o-t} com )  Thanks for reading this post. If you have found this info useful, please feel free to bookmark this page for future postings!

 

The following will allow you to add, remove and customize the data to be printed in the headers and footers of any documents printed from your Firefox or Internet Explorer web browser. (URL, Page #, Page # of #, Date/Time, Title). Removing the URL from browser printouts is the most common reason for wanting to edit these settings. The steps are located below.

 

Firefox

  1. Click the “File” button
  2. (this step may vary slightly depending on your FF version and/or platform) Click on “Page Setup” . If you don’t see “Page Setup” in the menu,  it may be under a drop down called “Print” under the same menu.
  3. You should now see a window with some tabs. Click the tab labeled “Margins & Header/Footer”
  4. On this screen you can change the values you would like displayed in the different areas on your print outs. They are labeled “Left”, “Center”, “Right”. These refer to the location on your document. The top row of values (header) will show up in the top of the print outs while the bottom row of values (footer) will show up in the bottom of your documents. The value labeled “Custom” will allow you to type in your own preferred data to be displayed on your print outs. When done, you can test to see that everything is being displayed properly by navigating to your “Print Preview” menu.

 

Internet Explorer

  1. Click the file button. For newer versions of Internet Explorer, you can click the print setup icon in the top right.
  2. Select the “Page Setup” option. If you don’t see “Page Setup” in the menu,  it may be under a drop down called “Print” under the same menu.
  3. You should now see a window displaying the “Paper” and “Margins” properties at the top and the “Header and Footer” options below. The “Header” side controls the info displayed at the top of printed pages and the “Footer” side controls what is displayed at the bottom of printed pages. The values boxes from top to bottom represent from left to center to right on the printed pages. The value labeled “Custom” will allow you to type in your own preferred data to be displayed on your print outs. When done, you can test to see that everything is being displayed properly by navigating to your “Print Preview” menu.
 

I have noticed Firefox 4.0 has the “save session on exit” prompt disabled by default. This feature normally allows you to save your browsing session before you close Firefox, and the next time you open Firefox it will reload all the pages you had open before. This is a handy feature when you have multiple tabs open, and for whatever reason, may need to restart your computer, but don’t want to bookmark all of the tabs. To re-enable this handy feature follow the steps listed below;

  1. Start a new blank tab in Firefox
  2. Type “about:config” in the address bar and hit “Enter”
  3. You will see a message that says “This might void your warranty”. Click the button below it that says “I’ll be careful, I promise”
  4. In the bar labeled “Filter:” at the top of the screen type “browser.showQuitWarning” and hit “Enter”
  5. You should see one result on the screen that reads “browser.QuitWarning” under the “Preference Name” column. Under the “Value” column it should read “False” Right click the row and select “Toggle”
  6. You should now see the “Value” column reads “True”. Now just close the tab and you’re all set.
  7. To test that it is working properly, try to close the browser when you have some tabs open. It should ask you if you would like to save your session. If this is the case it worked!

 

 

What is KeePass?
Today you need to remember many passwords. You need a password for the Windows network logon, your e-mail account, your website’s FTP password, online passwords (like website member account), etc. etc. etc. The list is endless. Also, you should use different passwords for each account. Because if you use only one password everywhere and someone gets this password you have a problem… A serious problem. The thief would have access to your e-mail account, website, etc. Unimaginable.

KeePass is a free open source password manager, which helps you to manage your passwords in a secure way. You can put all your passwords in one database, which is locked with one master key or a key file. So you only have to remember one single master password or select the key file to unlock the whole database. The databases are encrypted using the best and most secure encryption algorithms currently known (AES and Twofish)

**The above description was copied for reference from the official KeePass website**

 

My Thoughts On It

This program is lightweight, free, and open sourse (OSI Certified). “Open source” means all of the actual source code can be completely overlooked (by anyone who knows a little something about coding) allowing you to see exactly how the program does it’s magic. This always instills a higher level of trust in me because it gives me the ability to personally look over the program’s code myself to see if it works as described or whether or not it has any malicious or buggy code in it. Many programs claim to work similarly, but if they are not open source, can you really know exactly what that program is doing on your computer? I’m not saying if it’s not open source, it’s not safe. I am merely pointing out the fact that the creators of open source software are giving you the full source code which can be overlooked by yourself before compiling it for execution.  A good analogy for this would be; Open source is like a car dealer letting you drive the car around for a year and fully inspect it to your satisfaction before purchasing it, where as proprietary(non-open source) is like buying the car without even getting to inspect or drive it at all and relying solely on the word of the car salesman. Wouldn’t you prefer to kick the tires a bit for yourself before buying? For a more detailed explanation on the open source model please refer here.

I’m sure there are similar programs out there, but my own experience has been with KeePass Password Safe and it has been a great tool for me. I use it for all website passwords, router passwords,computer passwords, credit card numbers and more. With my credit card numbers in there, I don’t always have to go grab my wallet when shopping online. The official site for KeePass can be found here.

© 2012 My Mind Made Digital Suffusion theme by Sayontan Sinha